| Marker |
An arrangement of all the pattern pieces of the
garment or garments to be cut from a single lay of
fabric. A lay may consist of one or many layers of
fabric which are all cut at once. |
| Material Utilization |
Percentage of fabric actually used by
the pattern pieces on a
particular marker arrangement. Companies strive for
a high percentage which means that almost all of the fabric
is actually used to make the garment. Any fabric
between the pattern pieces that is not used, is scrap. |
| Mitering |
The process of seaming or folding a
corner diagonally for sharper, less bulky corners. |
| Nap |
Shaded or directional design that requires all
parts of the garment to be cut in the same direction. May result from the
print or weave of the fabric or the way the fabric is made. Velvet, corduroy,
and plush are fabrics with nap. |
| Ninety-Degree Angle |
A right angle; a perfectly square
corner. |
| Non-Woven Fabric |
Any fabric that is bonded together
rather than knit nor woven, such as felt. Many interfacings are
non-woven. |
| Notches |
Small cuts (slits or wedges) made in
the edges of garment pieces to aid in correct assembly. On home-sewing
patterns they are shown as dark triangles or diamonds. |
| Notions |
All materials, other than the fabric
and pattern, required to produce a garment; also called findings or "sundries. |
| Off-Grain |
Distorted fabric grain. Occurs when the
filling yarns (weft)
are not perpendicular to the selvage or fabric edge. When a garment is
"off-grain,"
the true grain does not fall perpendicular to the
floor. |
| One-Way Design |
A
fabric with a design or motif that runs in a definite
direction. These
fabrics are said to have nap
and patterns pieces must be cut with the tops all facing the
same direction. A
print with trees all growing in the same direction, for
example, is a
one-way design. |
| OTC |
Over the counter. Fabrics sold for the
home-sewing market or garments purchased, as is, from
stores. |
| Overhead Costs |
Expenses of operating a business over and above
the direct costs
of producing garments.
Overhead costs include utilities (e.g., electricity,
telephone), advertising and marketing, and any other costs
not billed directly to the client or included in the price
of the garment. |
| Overlocking |
See Serging. |
