| Sample Size |
The
size a company uses to make their sample garments. Traditionally,
Misses sample garments are size 8. |
| Seam Allowance |
Narrow
width between the seam line and the raw edge of the fabric. Seam allowances vary
depending on where they occur on the garment and the
manufacturers' specifications. Home sewing patterns
generally have a 5/8" seam allowance except at hems. Commercial
patterns generally use 1/4" to1/2" except at hems. |
| Seam Finish |
Any
technique used to neaten the edge of seams, prevent
raveling, and improve garment durability and appearance |
| Selvages |
The
narrow, finished edges of the fabric along both lengthwise
sides of all uncut woven fabrics. |
| Serging |
Edge
finish or seam made on an overlock machine (called a serger
in home sewing). Used
to prevent raveling or as decorative stitching on the right
side of the garment. Also
called Overlocking. |
| Shirring |
Permanent,
parallel rows of gathers made in the body of the garment |
| Skewing |
A
fabric defect resulting when the filling yarns or knitted
courses are not perpendicular to the warp or fabric edges. |
| Sleeve Head |
Layers
of shaping fabric sewn into the upper portion of the armhole
and extending out into the sleeve. Also called
"header." |
| Sloper |
A
basic pattern of a garment section; also called a
"basic block."
Does not include wearing ease or seam allowances. Used to develop a fashion pattern. |
| Specifications (specs) |
Exact
measuring standards for the production of a garment. |
| Stand |
Part
of the collar that stands up next to the neck. |
| Staystitching |
A row
of stitching used to stabilize the edge of a single layer of
fabric, typically on the bias. Rarely used in mass
production. |
| Stitch in the Ditch |
Sewing
on top of a finished seam line from the front of the
garment. The
stitch goes through all layers and holds them together. |
| Stock Keeping Unit (SKU) |
Numbering
system used by a company to identify a particular item by
style, color, size, etc. |
| Straight of Grain |
Following
the straight yarns in the fabric in both the lengthwise and
crosswise directions. |
| Sweep |
Circumference
of hem. |
| Textile |
Anything
made by people from fibers.
Includes fabrics made of non-woven fibers like felt,
unmodified plant materials like baskets and mats, fabrics
made of spun yarns such as knitted and woven cloth, and
items made of synthetics such as nylon window screens |
| Thread Count |
Number
of yarns per square inch of woven fabric both horizontally
and vertically. |
| Tolerance |
The
amount of the allowable difference (plus or minus) between
the specified measurements and the actual measurements after
sewing at any given part of the garment Tolerance is
established by the company and noted in the specifications. |
| Topstitching |
Visible,
decorative stitching done on the outside of the garment;
also called "accent stitching." |
| True Bias |
Fabric
direction that occurs at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise
and crosswise grains of woven fabrics. Has the highest
degree of stretch of any woven fabric direction. |
| Tuck |
A
stitched fold of fabric. Decorative
tucks are stitched on the right side of the fabric. Tucks used to create shape
are stitched on the inside to a designated point and
released |
| Two-Piece Sleeve |
Sleeve
consisting of two portions, the main sleeve piece which
incorporates the cap of the sleeve, and a second, narrow,
shaped sleeve piece under the arm. |
| Unbalanced Plaid |
A
design in which the patterns of bars vary on opposite sides
of a predominant colored bar either on the lengthwise or
crosswise grain, or both.
(See also Uneven
plaid) |
| Under Bust Measurement |
A
measurement around the rib cage |
| Under Collar |
Facing
of the collar. The under collar touches the garment and is generally not visible
as the garment is worn. |
| Understitching |
The
stitching, used on enclosed seams, that attaches the seam to
the facing and prevents
the seam from rolling to the front side. |
| Uneven Plaid |
Plaid
that varies in the arrangement of stripes on each side of
the dominant horizontal and vertical bars of the plaid. |
| Unit Production System (UPS) |
A
factory setup that replaces the traditional assembly line. Garments are sent to
each operator's station via computer-controlled, overhead
transporters, thus improving the flow of garments through
the factory and eliminating the time spent handling bundles. |
| Universal Product Code (UPC) |
See
Bar Code and Stock Keeping Unit
(SKU). |
| Upper Collar |
Visible
portion of the collar. |
