| Awl |
Wooden
handle with sharp metal point. Used for Making small holes
in paper. |
 |
| Beeswax |
Thread
is drawn through the slits in the plastic case to coat and
strengthen it. |
 |
Buttonhole
Cutter |
Flat,
sharp blade on a wooden handle and a small wooden cutting
board. The blade cuts the buttonhole against the board
without marking the table. |
 |
| C-Thru Rule |
Transparent
ruler with a grid of markings every 1/16" or 1/8",
sometimes has a 0-centering marking. Used to mark seam
allowances and draw lines. |
 |
| Centering Rulers |
Ruler
designed with "0" in the center and measured out
towards both ends. Used to easily find the center of a line
or equal distances away from a point. |
 |
| Chalk, Tailor's |
Triangular or square pieces of clay
chalk used to mark fabric before cutting or stitching. Comes in a variety
of colors to suit different colors of fabric. Wax chalk should be
used carefully because if ironed, it will melt into the
fabric. Varieties
with disappearing ink may leave a chemical residue in the
fabric. |
 |
| Compass |
Instrument
consisting of two legs, one of which has a sharp point at
the end and the other holds a pencil. The legs are joined at
the top and are held together by an adjustable hinge to
provide a variety of markings. Used to create curves,
circles. |
 |
| Cuff Rulers |
Rulers
made in the exact width of a cuff and used for quick and
accurate measurements. Comes in varying cuff widths, common
are 1-1/2" and 2" wide. |
 |
| Curved Rulers |
Also
called "French Curves." A set of rulers, plastic
or metal, in a variety of sizes, all with different angles
and curves. Used to smooth curved lines on patterns,
typically in the collar, armhole and neckline areas. |
 |
| Cutter, Rotary |
This instrument has a round blade like
a pizza cutter. It
may be used to cut out patterns or for cutting through
multiple layers of fabric.
Blade sizes include:
18mm (about ¾"); 28mm (about 1 1/8"); 45mm
(about 1 ¾"); and 60mm (about 2 3/8"). Must be used with a
special cutting mat. |
 |
Dressmaker's
Tracing Paper |
Paper with a coating of colored wax or chalk on one
or both sides. Used to transfer markings from pattern to
fabric.
|
 |
| Eraser |
There are various types of rubber
erasers. The
kneadable type used for art is preferable as it lessens the
chance of ripping the pattern paper. Used to get rid of
unwanted lines and "clean up" the pattern. |
 |
| French Curves |
A set of rulers,
plastic or metal, in a variety of sizes, all with different
angles and curves. Used to smooth curved lines on patterns,
typically at the collar, armhole, and neckline areas. May
also refer specifically to an armscye ruler. See "Metal
Rulers, Armscye"
and "Curved Rulers." |
 |
| Metal Rulers, Armscye |
Aluminum ruler with strong curve. Used to create or
correct the neckline and armscye (or armhole) curves.
|
 |
| Metal Rulers, Hip Curve |
Also called "Curve Stick." Aluminum ruler with
slight curve to create the hip, hem and lapel curves.
|
 |
| Metal Rulers, "L"
Square |
Aluminum ruler with precise 90 degree
angle. Used to create
perpendicular lines and to measure off parallel lines. |
 |
| Metal Rulers, Straight |
Aluminum ruler to precisely mark and
measure. Comes in a
variety of sizes for a variety of uses, see "Cuff
Rulers", "Centering Rulers" |
|
| Notcher |
A tool which creates 1/4" deep
square cuts in the edge of patterns. Used to make notches
on slopers or patterns. |
 |
| Oaktag |
Heavy paper (lighter than cardboard) used to make
slopers. This paper
is more durable than pattern paper and will keep longer.
|
|
| Pattern Hook |
Metal hook and "T"-bar
strung together with 8" of nylon cord. Used to hold sloper
or pattern pieces together in storage. Also comes in
an all metal type |
 |
| Pattern Punch |
A metal tool designed with a stable base and handle
that, when pushed, cuts a circular hole in paper. Used to make a hole
in a pattern or sloper to accommodate the pattern hook. Tool can make holes
in a variety of sizes.
|
 |
Pencil,
Mechanical |
A
pencil with a part to turn to extend the lead. Does not go
into a pencil sharpener. Gives a more consistent sharp point
than a pencil that must be sharpened. |
 |
Pencil,
Colored |
A pencil with colored lead. Used in
correcting pattern lines. |
 |
Pin
Cushion |
May be any shape or size. Standard type is tomato
shaped with a strawberry attached at the top. The strawberry is filled
with coarse sand that will sharpen pins and needles stuck
into it. Some pin
cushions attach to the wrist.
Used to hold pins and needles while working.
|
 |
| Push Pins |
A sharp pin approximately 1" long
with a plastic or metal drum-shaped end. Used to hold pattern
pieces down on a cork covered table. Also used to
"walk" or pivot pattern pieces to determine
correct fit.
|
 |
| Rotary Cutter |
This instrument has a round blade like
a pizza cutter. It may be used to cut out patterns or for cutting through
multiple layers of fabric.
Blade sizes include:
18mm (about ¾"); 28mm (about 1 1/8"); 45mm
(about 1 ¾"); and 60mm (about 2 3/8"). Must be used with a
special cutting mat. |
 |
Scissors,
Fabric |
A good quality pair of scissors used
specifically for cutting out fabric. Industrial scissors
may be 10" in length, custom sewing may use 8." Good brands are
Mundial, Wiss, Gingher and others. Never use these for
cutting out paper as it dulls the blade |
 |
Scissors,
Paper |
A pair of scissors used specifically
for cutting paper. |
|
Seam
Ripper |
Small handled device with a sharp hook
at one end that can slide under a stitch or a row of
stitches and cut them. Used
to take out unwanted lines of sewing. |
 |
Sewing
Gauge |
A ruler, typically 6" long, with
a movable measuring guide. Used
to mark hems and make alterations.
|
 |
| Snips |
Small cutting device which can fit
into the palm of your hand.
Used at the sewing machine to cut off thread at the
end of a row of stitching or used when inspecting a garment
to cut off unwanted threads |
 |
| Straight
Pins |
Standard sewing pins. Pins come in a variety of styles, widths, and lengths. Some have large glass or plastic heads. Used to pin fabric to fabric or fabric to pattern. Selection depends on
the type of fabric and personal preference.
|
 |
| Tailor's Chalk |
Triangular or square pieces of clay
chalk used to mark fabric before cutting or stitching. Comes in a variety
of colors to suit different colors of fabric. Wax chalk should be
used carefully because if ironed, it will melt into the
fabric. Varieties
with disappearing ink may leave a chemical residue in the
fabric.
|
 |
| Tape
Measure |
A 1/2" or 5/8" wide plastic
or fiberglass tape in 60" to 120" lengths
with measurements every 1/8." Used to measure the body. May also come
with metric measurements on one side and imperial on the
other. One variety of
tape measure has a 2" section of cardboard attached for
use in the measuring of the crotch area.
|
 |
Tape,
Transparent |
Adhesive tape used to hold paper
pattern pieces together.
Opaque tape (also referred to as "Magic"
tape by the Scotch brand) is best as it doesn't rip paper
when repositioned and you can write on it.
|
 |
| Tracing Wheel, Needlepoint |
An instrument with sharp, 1/4"
long "teeth" on a wheel attached to a handle. Makes pinholes. Used
to transfer pattern markings onto paper or oaktag. Also used in the
creation of knock-offs.
|
 |
Tracing
Wheel,
Plain Point |
An instrument with serrated teeth on a
wheel attached to a handle. Makes
slotted perforations. Used
with or without tracing paper
to transfer marking from paper to paper or paper to fabric.
|
 |
| Tracing Wheel, Smooth |
An instrument with a smooth wheel
attached to a handle. Used
with or without tracing paper to transfer markings from
paper to paper or paper to fabric. More often used on
fine or lightweight fabrics.
|
 |
| Triangle
Ruler |
A three-sided ruler, typically has two
equal sides which meet at a 90 degree angle joined to a
third side at a 45 degree angle. Used to identify true bias
lines or to square a corner.
|
 |
| Tweezers |
Metal
instrument for picking up small items. Also used for
threading the serger. |
 |